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Me and Pat Badland
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Hoodoos
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Kristy and I at the Star Mine Suspension Bridge
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Boomtown architecture
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Atlas Mine
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Kristy and I at The Last Chance Saloon
It was so amazing to not only imagine dinosaurs walking, but cowboys riding through these parts as well. A river of ice created these coulees and although the name Badlands refers to the inability to grow crops, it was also a superstitious and evil place for the Blackfoot Indians who inhabited this area. The only time they would come into the valleys was to hunt in times of dire need.
Back in the day, Drumheller was a rough coal mining town, a real “Wild West Town”. Around the year of 1911, a lady’s clothing store opened, the signal that the town was now safe for women to live in. Before then, no women came as it was too dangerous and “wild”. Funnily enough, the building that housed the women’s clothing store is now a men’s clothing store!
While in Drumheller we couldn’t resist going on a “Wild West Tour” with a tour guide named Pat Badland! He was like an older Jack Black with his mannerisms, jokes and fun way of storytelling. Kristy, myself and two couples from Edmonton piled into his station wagon on a Saturday morning for a 3 hour tour. “Hang onto your cowboy hats!” Pat yelled as we pulled out of the Travel Lodge parking lot, past a dinosaur painted as a rock star with AB/CA written on his jacket in the style of AC/DC!
The first stop was the site of the annual Passion of the Christ Play. In the middle of summer, actors and singers come from around the world to participate. It’s a great little natural amphitheatre that is set up all year round. Crosses ready for this years crucifixion were standing on the hill in place. What I loved the most was that the theatre was adjacent to Drumheller’s ski field. The quad chair that would have taken about 20 seconds to ride up looked awfully pathetic in comparison to where Kristy and I had just come from! You were right Matt, I think I have been spoilt for any other snowboarding experiences!
From here we headed out of town past a spot where Bryan Adams filmed a video clip and where Clint Eastwood and Morgan Freeman fought bad guys in the sage brush in The Unforgiven. At one point a group of six Mule deer ran in front of the car and gracefully jumped a fence next to us. Pat even detoured “for the Aussies in the back of the car” to a Buffalo farm so we could see the Bison up close - such weird looking animals!
Our next stop was the Hoodoos. The name “Hoodoo” comes from the word “voodoo” and was given to these strange and eerie geological formations by the Europeans. In the Blackfoot and Cree traditions, however, the Hoodoos are believed to be petrified giants who come alive at night to hurl rocks at intruders. They took millions of years to form and stand 5 to 7 metres tall. We took some time here to walk all around them.
Moving along in the car, Pat played Calgary country music star, Paul Grant’s “I’m Alberta Bound” on the cd player and we made our way to Rosedale and the Star Mine Suspension Bridge. The original swing bridge that was here carried miners precariously over Red Deer River until the mine closed in 1937. We crossed the 117 metre long bridge to climb the hill, which now covered the old mine site on the other side. Again we lingered at this point and really soaked up the Wild West atmosphere.
Pat passed around a jar filled with Canadian bills from the 1930s that a friend had found on his property not far from where we were and he began the first of a series of pop quizzes! “How come whoever buried this money did not trust the bank with it?” he posed to the group. I was surprised that I was the first one with the answer. Illegally making alcohol. I was awarded with a little pin from the Drumheller and District Chamber of Commerce that has a little Hoodoo and Dinosaur on it. Perfect sized souvenir for a traveller!
On our way to the Ghost town of Wayne we passed what Pat informed us where houses with “Boomtown” architecture. When these little railway towns were created, the facades on the houses and shops where twice the size of the building so that they would appear bigger than they actually were. They were lovely little buildings that had not been altered, just restored.
Listening to Ian Tyson, and strangely being transported back to the Blue Mountains in Australia through the magic of music, we passed the Atlas mine, a beautiful looking structure that allows tours in the underground mines. unfortunately though, it was closed to the public for another month or so.
Just before arriving at The Last Chance Saloon in Wayne (population 27) we went over 11 single laned bridges within a 6 km area. This spot is in the Guiness Book of World Records as the shortest distance with the most bridges, and you don’t have to keep count either, they are all numbered! The Last Chance Saloon was a wonderful experience. Scenes from Shanghai Noon were filmed just outside and Jackie Chan’s photo is displayed proudly on the wall, though you have to really hunt for it, the walls are crammed with all sorts of curious things! The hotel was directly opposite the Rosedeer Coal Mine and in it’s heyday the Saloon would feed 250 men a day. It was one of the roughest places in the area around 1913. It was nicknamed the “Bucket Of Blood Saloon” due to its violent past. Workers who would seek out unions, would be found under trains just outside the doors of the Saloon. And in the 1920s the Ku Klux Klan burned crosses in the surrounding hills.
The 3rd floor of the hotel has been boarded off since 1939 due to extreme paranormal activity, the owner will not allow any member of the public up there. I asked Pat for more stories but he looked a bit sheepish and said “ask the barmaid, if you want to know”. So I did. The week before a bottle of whisky came flying of the shelf from behind the bar and headed straight for her, but stopped short and gently floated to the ground at her feet. Stuff like that happens all the time, she said, that was just the most recent one. Very cool! Would have loved to have stayed their longer but we only had time for a beer, a quick chat and a good look at all the interesting things that covered the walls!
If anyone ever heads out Drumheller way, let me point you in the direction of Pat. I recommend you take his tour to really feel the wild west come alive. He gave me a free ticket to give to you. And as it says on the back, “This ticket ain’t worth nothin’ Pardner, it’s just free.”